Agar is prized among chefs for its ability to form firm, heat-stable gels at remarkably low concentrations — typically just 0.5-2 percent by weight. Culinary agar is available as powder, flakes, strips, or blocks, and makes up about 90 percent of the global use of agar. Unlike gelatine, which melts at body temperature, agar gels remain solid up to about 185°F (85°C), making it ideal for setting dishes served at room temperature or warmer. It is also flavorless and odorless, vegan and halal, and can create both delicate jellies and firm aspics. Yet, while increasingly employed in kitchens worldwide, agar had not yet entered the laboratory.
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"It's hard when the thing that brings you so much energy and drive is also the thing that's slowly destroying you," Manning says.